Uncovering My Grandfather’s Past: A Journey Through Ancestry

Fordington in Dorchester remains largely unchanged, echoing the sentiments expressed by Thomas Hardy regarding the village’s narrow passageways and thatched cottages, which appear to press against the church tower. Presently, the hub of activity in this charming area is Bean on the Green, a vintage-style café with outdoor seating and a sign promoting local Pilates classes, oat lattes, and afternoon teas. Not much different from the tranquil surroundings that Bernard Sheppard wandered in December 1944, just before embarking on a steam train to Penzance for a significant meeting with my grandmother, Virginia.

Since the launch of the first DNA testing kits by 23andMe in the UK in 2014, approximately five million Britons have explored their ancestry through DNA heritage tests. Many of these individuals have encountered surprising revelations regarding their genealogy, often referred to as a “non-paternity event” or NPE. According to the International Society of Genetic Genealogy, around 1-2 percent of modern Britons discover they have an unexpected father, a figure that escalates to 10 percent when tracing back to grandfathers.

Various travel companies, including Ancestral Footsteps—founded by former BBC Who Do You Think You Are? genealogist Sue Hills—Roots Revealed from Ireland, and Kensington Tours, which collaborates with genealogists from Ancestry Pro, have seized the opportunity to provide customized “roots tours” based on clients’ DNA findings. These excursions offer a glimpse into the lives of ancestors, from enjoying a drink at a relevant local pub to visiting burial sites and former homes. Tours can be conducted independently or guided by a professional genealogist.

My own exploration into DNA heritage began in 2019 when I was 42 years old. After submitting my DNA sample to Ancestry DNA, I was soon contacted by Kevin, a man in his sixties from Texas, who suggested that we might share a close genetic connection. Shortly thereafter, I received another unexpected message from Beverly, a 69-year-old from Rye, who was aware of her adoption in Dorchester in 1955 and believed I was either her first cousin or half-niece. “I wonder if the family knows about me…” she pondered in her email.

This message ignited a quest to uncover the truth about my family history, leading to the startling realization that my paternal grandfather was not the mild-mannered butcher Sidney, as I had been led to believe during my childhood in Birmingham. Instead, he was a brewery worker from Dorset, who had fathered at least ten children throughout his tumultuous life, including my father, Ken, and Beverly, who was adopted. Following the trail of DNA evidence, Kevin revealed, “Bernard was charming, but he was also a known rogue.”

I organized my journey from my residence in Lewes, East Sussex, to Bernard’s hometown of Dorchester with assistance from genealogists at AncestryPro. To my delight, I discovered that this historic market town retains numerous aspects from Bernard’s time, including the verdant edges of the ancient Roman amphitheater at Maumbury Rings, where I took a reflective jog during sunrise. The town’s High Street features grand Georgian homes, many of which still bear their Victorian names, as well as the formidable red-brick Eldridge Pope brewery. Historical records confirmed Bernard’s role as a cashier there in 1939, managing sales of its famed strong ales. Today, this site has transformed into a lively restaurant and shopping area called Brewery Square, while the original storage facility has evolved into a trendy tapas and cocktail venue.

According to Ancestry.co.uk genealogist Simon Pearce, the UK offers a wealth of resources for those investigating their genetic lineage. “There are countless sites to visit: cemeteries, churches your relatives frequented, and former residences that still stand,” he states. Pearce, who has a particular interest in family stories from wartime, mentions that my experience is not unusual in the realm of surprising DNA discoveries. “The Second World War saw many young individuals drafted, dispersing across the country and beyond. It also brought well-dressed American and Canadian servicemen to the UK during a time of uncertainty, leading to numerous unexpected familial events and increased divorce rates in the 1940s.”

During my stay at the King’s Arms, a Georgian coaching inn recently revitalized by a boutique hotel group, I was treated to a tour of the unearthed historical features. Rob Greacen, the managing director, showcased elements such as 17th-century posts leading to the inn’s stables, a 16th-century inner room, and a 1950 restaurant menu discovered during renovations. Though the offerings of steamed chicken and sprats might have seemed outdated, the present-day King’s Arms now serves gourmet dishes, including local smoked trout omelettes and luscious freestanding bathtubs in more luxurious rooms.

The following morning, I explored the Victorian Borough Gardens, reminiscent of a time when brass bands filled the air with melodies from a vibrant bandstand—reminiscent of Bernard’s youth. I then made my way to the Shire Hall Museum, a preserved Georgian court and prison that now honors the unfortunate souls who once found themselves within its walls, including the Tolpuddle Martyrs and minors incarcerated for petty crimes.

Back at the King’s Arms, the quiet smoking room is positioned where horse-drawn wagons once entered the inn. I dined on crispy fish native to the Dorset coast—a dish Bernard would likely find familiar, although the modern twist of wild garlic aioli might be a puzzling addition for him. As time passes, meals have evolved, with lemon posset and pumpkin seed biscotti replacing traditional treats.

After a full week tracing my heritage, I feel I’ve unraveled the mystery surrounding the meeting of Virginia and Bernard, as local records reveal Bernard’s ancestral connections to generations of sailors along the coastline, close to Virginia’s hometown. While the complete truth about their rendezvous may forever remain a mystery, this endeavor has instilled in me a renewed appreciation for our evolving world, both emotionally and gastronomically. I also now possess insights into my elusive grandfather’s life journey through the places he traversed. Here’s to you, Grandad, the charming rogue.