Discovering Ballyfin Demesne: Ireland’s Premier Country House Hotel

Ballyfin Demesne, located in Co Laois, has secured the top position in the Sunday Times Great Places to Stay 2025 list, surpassing luxurious hotels, sprawling resorts, and upscale spa retreats. Amid a climate where properties nationwide are continually enhancing their offerings with high-tech facilities and extravagant experiences, what truly distinguishes this country house hotel? I arrived to explore its modern interpretation of Regency-era hospitality.

Upon my arrival, I presented my name at the stylish gates and drove along a winding path through elegantly landscaped grounds. The impressive house, along with a sparkling manmade lake, came into view, and I noticed staff members lined up to perform the traditional welcome.

While such a greeting could feel over the top, the local staff were remarkably approachable, genuine, and efficient. One team member swiftly grabbed my suitcase from the trunk, while another led me into the main building. The third, who opened the car door and took my keys, casually inquired if I would like the vehicle to be valet parked. I was surprised to hear that “anything is possible” here, a bold claim that it seems they truly live up to at Ballyfin.

It’s well-known that Ballyfin has hosted an array of famous guests, including George and Amal Clooney, who reserved the entire property for a family affair, and Kim Kardashian and Kanye West, who chose this majestic location for their honeymoon. Given its relatively brief history in the hospitality sector, it’s remarkable to see such high-profile visitors drawn to this opulent hotel.

The coat of arms of the Coote family, the house’s original proprietors, is proudly displayed above the entrance. Constructed in the 1820s by Sir Charles Coote, the property was designed by noted Irish architects Sir Richard and William Morrison. The staircase is adorned with portraits of the Coote family, showcasing them in their ornate Regency attire, as they lived here over a century. In the late 20th century, the estate transitioned to the Patrician Brothers, who operated an educational institution on the grounds.

In 2002, the dilapidated 3,250 square meter estate caught the eye of Chicago-based businessman Fred Krehbiel and his wife, Kay, a native of Kerry. The art aficionados dedicated nine years to restoring the property to its former glory, meticulously working on intricate marquetry floors and lavish plaster ceilings, while acquiring artifacts that belonged to the Cootes. They opened the hotel’s doors in 2011, and today it is stewarded by Krehbiel’s sons, Liam and Jay, who are committed to nurturing their parents’ vision.

As a visitor, I was immediately captivated by the surroundings, from the grand saloon adorned with plaster columns to the 24-meter library, which stretches along the southern side of the house—a perfect venue for enjoying tea and scones. My afternoon included traditional country activities, and when I met the clay pigeon shooting instructor, he shared his deep connection to the venue; he had initially worked as a bricklayer during its transformation into a hotel. He even reminisced about his own experiences as a student at the school located here, which is now repurposed as the hotel’s laundry area. The local staff’s fondness for their workplace and its evolution is truly commendable.

To my surprise, after a couple of practice shots, I managed to hit six clays consecutively. Afterward, I rejuvenated in one of the hotel’s stunning rooms—the Westmeath—featuring an exquisite French bed as the centerpiece. Above the elegant marble fireplace hung a portrait of a notable figure, Marianne Jeffreys, who was born at Blarney Castle, Co Cork, in the 18th century, later becoming the Countess of Westmeath. It was a delightful coincidence; my first job had been as a cleaner at Blarney Castle Hotel.

Feeling at home in my new surroundings, I descended for a glass of champagne in the opulent gold drawing room before enjoying dinner prepared by Michelin-starred chef Richard Picard-Edwards in the formal dining room. The meal began with a starter of West Cork crab accompanied by mackerel, gooseberry, and buttermilk, followed by perfectly cooked turbot with cavolo nero and garden turnip. The dessert—an almond dacquoise complemented by orange ganache—was nothing short of exceptional.

This exquisite experience exemplifies why Ballyfin is a must-visit. If an overnight stay is beyond reach, it’s noteworthy that since last summer, reservations for dinner are available to non-residents. This allows a larger audience to appreciate the grandeur of Ballyfin, encouraging others to unearth their own connection to this meticulously preserved historic site.